Відео

Hi Ben Great Video. Have you ever tried the Marksman 9ft 6 wt?

How does this rod compare with the new orvis recon? I’m deciding between the two. From your review the recon sounds better but the blitz has a higher Poseidon score

Great review. I don't think that casting 80 feet with a bonefish taper is sensible since the taper doesn't support casts at that distance. The casts at 40 to 60 feet is where you need to look in an 8 weight with a flats taper line. How does it compare to an Orvis Recon which is in the same price range?

What’s the difference between the R8 regular 8wt and the R8 Salt 8wt?

metolius!

Have you put a 150plus pound tarpon on it yet? If not.. you shouldn’t say it’s not for big tarpon unless you want to. Handles large tarpon (120+) extremely well. This reel Was meant for the most extreme anglers searching for giant fish. By the way that’s more of a 12+ WT than a 9-10. Drag speaking not spool size. Silent retrieve is great for night fishing!

I casted a 7wt Helios D and a TFO Axiom II-X. I took home the Axiom II-X. It casted further (dumped the entire line) and more accurately for me. You even get recoil guides with the TFO. I don't like the single locking reel seat on the Helios, I prefer the double locking seat. For $1098? I'll pass.

Is it ok if I don’t share it with anyone

3

How do you tie with mono thread without turning it into a twisted mess? I'm finding it twists more with every wrap. It doesn't seem like you're untwisting it.

Rocking that tie and well dressed! Also good advice.

on another note, sometimes you'll have to deal with some unruly quill wings that just want to stand straight up in the air, or at least too far away from the hook. A simple solution to that is to hold the tie spot of the wing, pull the wing down by the hook and push it slightly towards the tie in position. Then push a little hump in the feather there (doesn't need to be big hump). Then re-grab the front of the hump with your left hand (presuming you tie with your right hand), and with your right hand, stroke the quill wings from that hump to their tips. This will actually re-align feather to hold that lower position. This was a life-saver for me when I first started tying quill-wing wet flies because you can only re-tie those wings once or twice more before they are no longer usable and you don't need to re-tie them at all with this method The reason that works is those fibers on the quill wings zip together with each other much like a zip-lock bag. So this is like sealing a zip lock bag with a space at one end because you mis-aligned it, only you did it on purpose with the wing quills.

Hey Karl, I've never seen anyone spear the one side of the wing, line up the tips and spear the other side of the wing like that. That's a brilliant move. I often struggle to get the tips lined up and then grasp the butts without displacing them. Thanks for another great tip!

Traditionally that fly actually had a "wet-fly hackle" wound around before the wing was mounted instead of just a throat hackle. That gave the wings a little support when they were mounted and more fibers to move in the water as you swung across the currents. However another method has been used since the 1960's that was developed by Charles DeFeo after he retired. It would take a feather and snip the quill center out of it leaving a "V" notch in the feather fibers a bit longer than you'll need for the throat hackle. You would then strip the quill below the fullness of barbs you need to make up the throat hackle and snip off the excess leaving yourself 1/4" to 1/2" of bare stem that you can grasp with your fingers. Using that bare stem, place it underneath the hook and take two moderately tight wraps around it. Then pull the quill towards the hook eye slowly until you have the tips of the throat hackle even with the tip of the hook or slightly longer than that. Then, unwrap one wrap, pull the thread straight down to tighten the remaining wrap without twisting your material and then use two more tight wraps to secure it. Then you can go ahead and mount the wing. That DeFeo method gives a little nicer look to the throat hackle, but honestly not that much. I used it primarily in full-dress Atlantic Salmonflies, but have also used it in trout flies. The method of applying the throat hackle here that Karl demonstrates works perfectly well and is really all you need for wet flies. It is also the quickest way to do it. The DeFeo method may look a bit nicer, but again, the trout don't care because the results are similar. Personally I still like to wind the wet-fly hackle instead of just using throat hackle. I do that by using a webby feather and folding the fibers back towards the back of the fly as I wind it around the hook.

Another suggestion I'll make is to only use two of the four strands of the floss and tie it in at the head of the body instead of the tail. Floss bodies will expose every bit of inconsistency in the body, so I like to tie the floss in with less floss at the head, wind it back to the tail tie-in and then wind it back up to the front of the body and tie it off. On the smallest flies you may need to only use one of the 4-strands. To keep the floss body smooth and without any lumps, I actually prefer to use 6/0 thread and counter-spin it to flatten it out. When I started fly-tying, you either used 6/0 thread for the smaller flies or 3/0 thread for the larger flies. Both of those were/are flat threads and you can counter spin them to flatten them out, or spin them in the other direction to tighten them up. I remember when 8/0 Uni-Thread came out and I was super happy because it was much smaller than 6/0 and was still just as strong. That made tying small flies much easier because it took much more thread to make a lump or bulge in the body. The Uni-thread and similar threads however are round and they only flatten out a small amount if you try to counter spin the thread. Usually not a big problem, but when you are using floss to cover the thread, if you leave gaps in the thread underbody tying materials in, you can often see those inconsistencies in the overlying floss. Fish don't really care but fly-tiers do. If you have rough finger tips and they keep snagging filaments of the floss, take a pumice stone and work over the tips of your fingers to smooth them out. If you can't do that, get some white cotton gloves to put on your hands when wrapping floss. When I was tying Atlantic Salmon Flies for display, I would use actual silk floss (before there was rayon floss) and it was/is much more fragile than modern floss. I ended up buying some white silk gloves to handle that. Silk gloves can be a bit tough to find sometimes. You are most likely to find them at a shop that carries silk longs and undershirts (underwear). Cotton should work fine for you with the rayon floss though.

Always enjoy watching Karl tie! Instead of using a little bit of super glue on this, some Sally Hansen's Hard As Nails works great for coating the floss body and ribbing and really makes the body pop! It also works great for protecting quill-body flies and makes the segmentation much more noticeable. You can also use hi-gloss head cement or UV cure resin on it. Hard to use the UV cure on the smaller flies though because it's so thick. But those will cover and coat it for durability without changing the color of the floss.

Do you need fly line and a leader

Good produk

I was hell bent on getting a Tibor Riptide for my 10 wt. I ordered one through my local fly shop. (Sorry Trident) The delivery wait was several months out. I checked out the Shilton and got the SL7. Love it! It’s very similar to the Tibor with one notable exception- the center spindle is one piece instead of three like the Tibor. Feet things to lose. The drag is crazy strong. I recommend.

I disagree, balance DOES matter.

Great video! I love the new graphics that you used. I live the look of this reel, but I can't hack it at this price. More power to the people that buy this beautiful reel. I'm bummed to see the prices of everything skyrocket, especially in the elitist world of fly fishing.

I wonder if it could work for tarpons,😅

Slow is best for everything.

People fishing for 20lb stripers in December with heavy streamers need different setups than people fishing for 8" trout in April with very small dry flys. Do what makes you happy and enjoy your time on the water!

Flip disagrees

I’ll stick with my Nautilus Silver King!

I just got this reel and I couldn’t be happier. The next reel I liked that was comparable was over $400

Good review..ill order one this week for this years salmon run

Would you recommend this reel over the Orvis Battenkill Disc Drag? Im looking for my first fly reel.

Took a chance on Lamson and very much like my cobalt, but very much more disappointed to see it discontinued. From now on will stick to Nautilus, Tibor, etc… where I know I can get parts down the road.

How does it feel on the rod? I'm curious how it feels in use; bulky, line snagging, easier casting due to lower weight?

very clean tye

Awesome video! This helped! But dude it’s ok Blink once in a while

Nice1 for northern pike 👍🏻

Would this one be a good pick up with rio outbound short for streamers and rio single handed spey for anadrom species?

This pattern can be so money during a caddis hatch. Tie this with a bead, too, with a nymph hook, and nymph as an emerged.

The Lamson Radius is a great all-around rod. The Greys products are good, too (using an older, the GR80, as my drift boat rod, and it does a great job). The Recon is a very good rod. Still tough to beat the Fenwick Aetos for the money.

I have the Lamson lightspeed M8 weight. The only thing that I do not like about it is that when you tighten or loosen the dragon, there is no clicking to feel where you are in the drag system. Is a hyper M.the same .

Reminds me of the orvis hydros SL the previous model to the current one

I'm not sure whether I need all that speed, but I certainly think the Lamson team created an incredibly sexy reel here.

Why compare a 4wt glass to a 5 wt carbon like they are the same thing? Idk maybe get someone who isn't biased do the reveiw

I fish Lamson reels in the salt and my Litespeed G5 11+ and Guru S9+ are great.

Is there any tactile or audio feedback when turning the drag knob? The lightspeed M didn't, which in my opinion cheapened it.

Nice video! Please do a review about the Winston Air 2 Max!

"made in the USA" .. BUT .. also mostly hecho é mexico

Outsourcing to mexico 🙄 . We dont want to hear that. .. unamerican

I like the color, easy to find in the brush when your working two rods. Plus I agree with the last comment of "the world has enough "dark olive" rods. I used this rod on a small creek in the Sequoias a couple of days ago. It was paired with a Redington 3/4 Run reel (very light) and Rio, Grande 3wt flyline. The whole set up worked so well, I ordered a complete set up.

I would love to know how this compares to a Sage payload

My boot waders are no wear near a warm as my stocking foot waders, the wellies are freezing, much warmer with my neoprene stockin foot. Its most cold all year in Scotland. It all matters what type of waders you got too ass ther not all same thickness or insulation values

Ridiculously expensive!